This summer, Shawn Millard moved his takeout-only deep-dish pizza kitchen, West of Chicago, into a low-key space in West Seattle. Fans were ecstatic about increased access to his Chicago-style pies. Prestige TV show The Bear only amped up affection for his Italian beef sandwich, which graduated from ticketed popup to daily certainty when the restaurant opened. The best item on the menu is neither of these things.
The tavern pie is a less-sung hero of Chicago’s pizza lore. Imagine the crust as one enormous cracker, just chewy enough to put the toppings on the main stage. Tradition dictates it’s cut into diamond-shaped pieces that make it
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