Waitsburg—population 1,200—has a three-block downtown with old brick buildings and lampposts hung with banners and flower baskets. Behind this low skyline, the town turns abruptly into hills and clouds and that golden vastness particular to Eastern Washington. Come evening you see a small cluster of people outside Bar Bacetto, hoping for one of its 12 seats.
It’s nothing compared to the lines Mike Easton generated in Seattle. Back at his first restaurant, Il Corvo, devotees stood for an hour, even 90 minutes on steep Pioneer Square sidewalks, all for a bowl of lunchtime pasta. But the sight of this queue, in a town 20 miles north
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