It’s a Monday afternoon and Fishermen’s Terminal in Ballard is relatively empty. A man pulls into the parking lot in a minivan and snakes his way over speed bumps to the water’s edge, where he stops alongside a battered-looking boat. After hopping onto the deck and exchanging a few words and some cash with the boat’s all-Fijian crew, he gingerly packs a whole flash-frozen albacore tuna into a Styrofoam container, places it in his trunk, and glides away.
The transaction has the air of a secret. But it isn’t one. The St. Jude has been trolling for albacore in the Pacific for 35 years, and its owners, Joe and
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