Salmon’s New Symbolism

It happened the same way for years: The Alaska Airlines “salmon thirty salmon” lands at Sea-Tac each May and taxis toward the waiting crowd. An image of a 127-foot king salmon adorns the plane’s body; its cargo of Copper River salmon is less than 24 hours removed from the water. These are the very first fish of the earliest (and, to many, best) king run of the season. Television crews on the tarmac provide red carpet coverage of the semi-silly spectacle of pilots escorting a ceremonial fish off the plane like security for a dorsal-finned Taylor Swift. Handpicked chefs wait below to receive this prime piece of protein.

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