An impromptu dinner party broke out when Holly Smith visited a friend in Bend a few years back. She made a salad she’d been experimenting with at home. The Cafe Juanita executive chef and owner was acquainting herself with nutritional yeast—trying it out in various recipes “just to have something in my pocket for vegans.”
The crowd that night was decidedly omnivorous. But “I watched everyone go loopy for this salad,” she remembers. Working big chunks of avocado—and a dash of vinegar—into the massaged kale and salsa creates a sort of sleight-of-hand salad dressing. But the real magic is in the universal appeal. Her
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