The kombu-aged Hokkaido scallops at Hummingbird Sushi are the ideal omakase dish.
The Hokkaido scallops at Hummingbird Sushi are exactly the kind of thing you hope for at an omakase meal: a surprise that changes how you think about an ingredient. Aged in kombu, which firms the flesh and enhances the natural umami of the shellfish, the scallops are underlined by a double-whammy of citrus from lemon confit and yuzu vinaigrette.
But the dish also embodies the disconnect of a restaurant that’s torn between high-minded sushi, boisterous flavors, and flamboyant presentation. Off-putting bubbles of yuzu foam gather at the edge of the pearlescent bivalve coins, which chef
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