How NA Cocktails Went from Afterthought to Main Event

Canlis bar manager José Castillo says he works closely with the restaurant’s kitchen to develop its nonalcoholic cocktails.

Dinner service at Canlis doesn’t start for another three hours; atop the restaurant’s bar, a stockpot full of tarragon and parsley syrup cooks down with lemon peels and sugar over an induction burner.

Together, says head barman José Castillo, these ingredients produce a syrup almost reminiscent of Pernod.  Bartenders combine the final, cooled version with a shrub made from the Japanese sweet potato satsumaimo, plus ginger and a dusting of cinnamon.

The result glows a mellow orange in its delicate coupe—refreshing and complex with an innate food compatibility not

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