How Does a Local Gelato Shop Close in Seattle but Also Live On as a Global Chain?

Popping by the D’Ambrosio Gelato Instagram page, the slogan, “Since 1957” jumped out at me. I was doing my basic fact-check on a tidbit of food news—the original Ballard location closed at the end of last year—on a place I thought I knew well. Well enough to know that it had not been around “Since 1957.” Just as surprising was that the Ballard shop seemed to be the least of the company’s concerns: Its website boasts of nearly 20 locations, mainly in Asia.

Knowing I hadn’t hallucinated my friend (and fellow food writer) Geraldine DeRuiter telling me back in 2010 about her family opening a gelato shop, I shot

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