The Olympic Mountains serve as backdrop to one of Hama Hama Oyster Company’s beach events.” data-image-selection=”{“x1″:0,”y1″:0,”x2″:3000,”y2″:2000,”width”:3000,”height”:2000}”>
“It’s the merroir,” the oyster shucker tells me from behind a swath of ice chips at Chelsea Farms Oyster Bar in downtown Olympia. “Like terroir. Terre is earth, and mer is sea.” He’s explaining how I can tell the difference between two oysters both grown a few miles away—just how a wine connoisseur may note how the nature of a vineyard’s dirt informs a wine.
Side by side on my plate, an exemplary pair: the Chelsea Gem oyster, grown in a tumble bag submerged in Eld Inlet, rocked with each
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