A dainty marble table, set among the bottle-lined shelves of a wine shop and facing into the public walkway of Melrose Market, makes for an elegant scene in which to casually sip rosé, complete with a hooked stand for hanging your purse. It is not, by any means, a place that a self-conscious person should endeavor to eat an oversize hunk of toast piled high with garlic-slicked greens and roly-poly halves of six-minute eggs cradling fudgy yolks. And yet.
I dove, knife first into the day’s toast special at Cafe Suliman, letting the serrations do their best to tear through the pile of seasonal vegetables and sturdy sourdough from
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