Eat This: Sesame Chicken at Asian Kitchen

Sesame chicken is an icon of Chinese American cuisine.

The generic name and mundane strip mall location in the far northern region of Broadview feel particularly appropriate for Asian Kitchen, a restaurant that excels at the much-maligned niche cuisine of American Chinese food: egg foo young, neon orange duck sauce, and plates of glossy, sticky sesame chicken.

A sparse collection of indoor plants do their best to liven up the big brown booths and yellow walls, which otherwise match the accusations lobbied at American Chinese food as a genre: lacking in flair and nuance. But this is the kind of place that lets the food do the

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