I make this all the time at home,” my friend—Bengali and an adept cook—mused, surveying her menu from our seats in the rear dining room at Kricket Club. She was looking at the jaljeera—a spicy, summery drink on par with lemonade. Here it’s sweetened with lilikoi into a non-alcoholic cocktail in a majestic shade of magenta.
She wasn’t disappointed, the way I would be if the jarred spaghetti sauce and baked chicken of my own upbringing showed up on a menu. More intrigued. Homestyle Indian dishes at a restaurant fancy enough to dole out amuse-bouches?
Kricket Club opened in late 2021, a polished arrival even against a winter
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