A butcher shop takes on steak at Beast and Cleaver. Photograph by Amber Fouts.
Few restaurant genres are as tightly scripted as the American steak house: Showy slabs of meat star against a supporting cast of sides—creamed spinach, mac and cheese, maybe mashed or baked potatoes with the requisite butter lake. All this prefaced by a martini.
Today, you can intuit a lot about a steak house by whether the menu abides by that formula, adapts it, or blows the old playbook to dry-aged smithereens. Seattle is fortunate to have some really excellent beef specialists in our midst, from Mexican, French, or Japanese influences to special-occasion pros that put
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