For the bulk of the last five years, one of Seattle’s culinary landmarks sat empty in Little Saigon. Now it’s back, serving just one main dish: half a Cornish hen glazed in fish sauce and coated in garlic, an homage in poultry form to those ice cream drumsticks rolled in chopped peanuts. Each order of com ga mam toi comes with a formidable knife, but the best way to dismantle this chicken is with two sticky hands. Juice drips from the meat, and yet the skin is fried to an admirable crisp. You could parse all the technical ways this dish succeeds, but that’s a waste
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