“Do you remember that dairy cow we had?” Kei Ohdera says, sitting down for lunch with John Schaible in 2018. The two were reflecting on their shared culinary history: They had both worked in farm-to-table restaurants before taking jobs at Farm Spirit, and while working in a New York kitchen, Ohdera and Schaible encountered their first retired dairy cow. When Schaible tasted it, the fat had almost a buttery quality, almost like a sweet potato biscuit; it complemented the minerality of the meat. “The marbling on the fat was so yellow, and the meat was magenta,” Schaible says.
Generally, retired dairy cows in the United States are slaughtered
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