No less an authority than native Portlander James Beard once remarked, “Dungeness crab is sheer, unadulterated crab heaven,” and one of the unique privileges of living in the Pacific Northwest is the early winter arrival of the season’s first Dungeness crab. With a subtle, sweet flavor, fresh Dungeness is one of the natural treasures of this part of the world, whether it’s simply steamed, tossed with spaghetti, or piled in chirashi. The hardcore crab-o-philes may prefer theirs from a live market, but for the rest of us, Portland has a thrilling range of Dungeness options, from a simple half-crab and butter to classic cioppino or true California rolls. Many
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