What is a modern American wine bar? It is a bar, obviously; it absolutely serves wine, which has certainly been fermented from grapes that were definitely grown somewhere. It is light and Scandinavian, unless it is dark and Viennese. It is in New York City or Philadelphia or Los Angeles or Taos, and the menu, which is printed, unless it isn’t, exclusively features cold bar snacks, unless it features lobster au poivre.
For taxonomists of dining, it also raises questions: Is this a wine bar or is this a restaurant? “There’s, like, a frustration,” says Jacob Nass, co-owner and beverage director of Demo (opened
→ Continue reading at Eater