Should Portland Chefs Ditch the Wood-Fired Oven?

At the Turning Peel in Southeast Portland, charred, thin-crust pizzas arrive topped with everything from prosciutto to purple cauliflower, three-year-aged Parmesan to house-made vegan mozzarella. Before opening her pizzeria in 2023, owner Candy Yiu did her homework. She knew that she wanted to use sourdough for her crust, and to create pies similar to the ones that have been bubbling in the wood-burning ovens of Naples for hundreds of years.

“I really love Neapolitan pizza, where the crust is really thin and it’s really light,” she says. “We were really debating what pizza oven to use… People get really excited about wood fire.”

While working on her

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