Returning to the Goose Hollow Inn, Without Bud

The walls of the Goose Hollow Inn are covered in faded posters and beer ads, collected over the course of its 55-year history. A neon sign over the kitchen declares that the restaurant offers the “Best Reuben on the planet.” Christmas lights hang from the beams, weaving between orange-hued light bulbs. The wood of the tables is worn and etched with decades of incomprehensible words and names.

Derek Dahms has worked at the Goose Hollow Inn for 16 years, whirring through the bar’s wood-paneled dining room and surrounding patio. On Thursday, the restaurant is almost completely full — unusual for a February evening. “It feels like a summer shift,”

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