Dining out involves calculating the intangible: What is hospitality worth to you? On the one hand, you get the possibility of technique and flavor you cannot, or don’t want to, create yourself, plated and served with attention. On the other hand, going out to a restaurant means risking mediocrity or outright unpleasantness for which you still have to pay. Every meal is an attempt to solve for this unknown, with a different equation each time.
Lately, the calculus is becoming more complicated. Or maybe the answer just keeps shaking out in one direction. Everything feels so expensive. Every check is a shock. My friends and colleagues can’t stop talking
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