When Akkapong Earl Ninsom returns to his hometown of Bangkok, he always finds himself back in Chinatown. One of the largest Chinatowns in the world, the neighborhood is a maze of seafood stalls and treat vendors, temples and bars, all tangled with the winding Yaowarat Road. Ninsom often finds himself in Chinatown after dark, in search of late-night bowls of peppery noodle soup and desserts, often sweet dumplings and buns.
Ninsom is easily one of Portland’s most celebrated chefs and restaurateurs. Each time he opens a new restaurant — tasting menu spot Langbaan, fried chicken destination Hat Yai, Thai barbecue mashup Eem — it rapidly rises to Portland
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