In Jakarta, Indonesia, Pasar Muara Karang — a morning market, or pasar pagi — opens at 5 a.m. to crowds starting their daily shopping. Vendors lay out water-filled tubs of whole crabs and fish, while others set up piles of fresh produce. Within stalls, cooks begin simmering pots of broths for soups or setting up displays of colorful kuih, a type of bite-sized dessert often made with tapioca or glutinous rice flour for maximum springiness or chew.
While Feny,* the owner of Burnside Indonesian restaurant Wajan, was growing up, she would go to Pasar Muara Karang for groceries and breakfast with her mother. They’d seek out her favorite
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