Old Town’s Under-the-Radar, Late-Night Taco Window Has Become a Full-Blown Taqueria

Since he was 15, Fabian “Fabo” Rosas knew he wanted to open his own taqueria. Two years ago, knee-deep in the pandemic, he did just that. After running pop-ups for a couple years with a canopy and griddle behind Chop Shop in Hillsboro, he and his wife, Tyanna Rosas, opened Fabo’s Tacos as a late-night window in Old Town. From 9 p.m. to 2 a.m. Thursdays through Saturdays, late-night revelers sauntering out of Dante’s or Dixie Tavern have ordered quesabirria from the Northwest 4th taco window, dunking shredded-beef-filled tacos into takeout cups of consomé, onions and cilantro floating above the depths.

While tacos at the window serve as

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