When Shintaro Yamada was growing up in Fukuoka, Japan, he would walk down to the Nagahama port, known for its fish market, and stroll past countless ramen stands, flags hanging above rows of regulars hunched over bowls of pork broth and noodles. The soup sold in those stalls is so distinct, it’s known as its own style of ramen: Nagahama ramen relies on a tonkotsu base and thin noodles, similar to Hakata ramen (which also has roots in Fukuoka).
“Fishermen, they have to eat really fast,” Yamada says. “I’ve been to those ramen shacks so many times. They’re almost like family.”
Years later, Yamada is now the one
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