Philadelphia has the cheesesteak, a glistening heap of paper-thin beef slathered with shelf-stable cheese and nestled in the pillowy embrace of a hoagie roll. El Reno, Oklahoma has the griddled onion burger, a cross-state roadside attraction that’s the perfect synthesis of beef, onion, and flattop char. Portland, Oregon, has a … question mark.
Many cities across the country seem to have a hometown dish or two that reveals something distinctive and tangible about their immigration patterns, histories, and the communities that live there now. But ask a dozen Portland residents what the town food is and you’ll get a dozen different answers — or, even more likely, blank stares.
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