While Nina Murphy was studying wine, after days steeped in varietals and soil types and elevation and faults, she wouldn’t relax with a glass of red. Between working as a harvest hand and pouring wine in a tasting room, she was oversaturated; she felt discouraged by the state of the industry, which involved persistent issues with gatekeeping and unsustainable labor expectations. Instead, in her free time, she would pour herself cups of Junmai, Namazake, Genshu — all varieties of Japan’s most famous rice-based beverage. “Sake was my respite,” she says. “I could enjoy it with a pure heart, I wasn’t analyzing it.”
Years later, Murphy has made sake
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