New Portland Pop-Up Javelina Is an Eclectic Portrait of Past and Present Native Cuisine

When people talk about Indigenous foods in the United States, fry bread often surfaces. After the U.S. government forced tribal members from their ancestral land and onto reservations, the displaced Navajo, also known as the Diné, invented fry bread, a fried dough made from things like flour and powdered milk. Out of necessity, the dish used ingredients from the meager and often rancid rations dispersed by the U.S. government. Fry bread eventually became a staple within several Indigenous populations throughout the United States, often adapted into a taco-like dish with fillings like ground beef, onion, lettuce, cheddar, and chiles.

Chef Alexa Numkena-Anderson — who has familial ties to

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