Last October, diners gathered in Malka’s eclectic dining room not to eat crispy rice salads or matzo ball khao soi, but something completely different. Osmanthus syrup-drenched lotus root slices, stuffed with sweet sticky rice, arrived at tables alongside cumin-spiced lion’s mane mushroom skewers, served with peanut sauce on mismatched plates. Beancurd skin rolls bathed in an earthy brine of ginseng, mushroom, and star anise, while five-spiced cakes made of yuca and taro came with a crown of Sichuan dry pot brassicas, accented with the honey-like sweetness of figs.
Hannah Che, the food blogger-turned-vegan chef behind Surong, melds traditional Chinese cooking with local produce to create dishes that are distinctively
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