In the spring of 2014, chef Bonnie Frumkin Morales and her husband, Israel Morales, opened a hallway of a restaurant on Grand Avenue. Frumkin Morales built her career in Chicago, working for fine dining destination restaurants like Tru and Moto; this restaurant, however, had no tasting menu, no hefty price tag or super-serious approach. Instead, the couple served little carafes of vodka, colorful salads and pickles, bowls of dumplings, and dollops of roe and caviar. Plaid tablecloths sopped up spilled glasses of Georgian, Hungarian, and Slovenian wine before they became the hot bottles at natural wine bars. Toasts arrived with sprats and salted mackerel before chic tinned fish lists
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