In certain ways, eating the salads at North Albina restaurant Sweedeedee kind of feels like eating an issue of lifestyle magazine Kinfolk. Piles of root vegetables arrive in gorgeous, earth-tone-glazed ceramic bowls, dropped at tables with little vases of flowers and water in stout glasses. The actual components change all the time, based on what’s in season, but they often involve some sort of chilled, previously roasted vegetable, dressed in some esoteric vinegar and a minimum $35 bottle of olive oil. Generally, there’s some sort of crunchy element — usually a nut, like hazelnut or pistachio — and before it’s served, someone at the counter removes a block of
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