When Oma’s Takeaway emerged as a takeout tent outside pseudo-Indonesian spot Gado Gado, it felt like a tiny, contained party: A disco ball turned over packed orders of Flamin’ Hot chicharrones and popcorn shrimp in sweet chili mayo, where music would blare and plants sat perched on tables in the parking lot. For those who know Mariah and Thomas Pisha-Duffly, the owners of Gado Gado, it felt very true to them: At a 2019 Feast after-party, the two set up fire pits in the front parking lot and served meats roasted on a spit — it felt like something between the best backyard barbecue and a hip pop-up, with
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