At New Portland Shop Bardo, Tea Is Treated as Seriously as Wine

On Saturday mornings, Veronika Vogler stands at the entrance to Bardo Tea on Killingsworth and greets her visitors. They take off their shoes and hang up their coats, working their way to a room toward the back of the teahouse. A ring of meditation cushions surrounds a station with three small teapots, plus glossy ceramic vessels bumpy with the thumbprints of their potter. As their guests take their seats, folding feet over thighs to sit in the lotus position, Vogler begins to make tea, a pu’erh that has the almost damp, floral funk of an April backyard, daffodils and grass and earth.

Vogler’s visitors meditate with their eyes

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