Three years ago, in May 2020, Lisa Nguyen started selling springy, wheat and glutinous rice flour doughnuts as a pandemic-era pop-up, an homage to both the mochi doughnuts she first tried in Japan and the Vietnamese sweets she ate growing up. That bouncy texture, often the product of tapioca or glutinous rice flour, has been a nostalgic comfort of hers; it turns out, that was true for a group of loyal regulars, who followed Nguyen to Heyday pop-ups across the city. Countless Portlanders fell in love with that balance of resistance and give in Nguyen’s doughnuts, which came in fun flavors like animal cookie and Vietnamese coffee.
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