After two years, the shape of the Portland food world has changed completely. We’ve lost countless legends, shifted our understanding of what a restaurant looks like, seen line cooks and unemployed home cooks start their own businesses. Portland, as a city, has always been a place that has celebrated chefs in unexpected places — pop-ups, food carts, farmers market stands — but facing the existential threat of the COVID-19 pandemic, the industry has developed a fascinating balance of grit and whimsy, as chefs started Instagram pop-ups and commissary family meals, churned out new concepts with the tides of new safety restrictions and COVID-19 strains. The culinary world is more
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