Wild Cumin’s lamb skewers ring with the restaurant’s namesake spice and a deep smokiness.
The smokiness stopped me mid-bite of my lamb skewer, and not in the “wildfire ahead” kind of way either, but just the opposite. The dusky smoke permeated the chunks of lamb, themselves tenderized by tidbits of fat threaded onto the skewer and nearly crusted in cumin and chili powder.
The kebab tasted of old men tending to outdoor grills at barebones shops identified only by puffs of meat-scented air rising in white wisps. It did not taste of gleaming white walls or the shiny red logo identifying it as Wild Cumin, one of
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