Atoma is far more than its signature rosette cookie. But you’re gonna want to order a few of them for the table.
It took me four dinners at Atoma before I could stand to not order the rosette cookie. Which is understandable. After all, we’re talking about a crepe-thin flower of fried batter that hides soft white farmer cheese and Walla Walla onion jam inside its crisp petals. It’s vintage Scandinavia meets U-S-A country fair food, wrought in a Northwest kitchen that’s no stranger to tweezers.
Instead, that night, I began dinner with the panisse, a hefty chickpea fritter with an interior soft as custard despite its
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