Late-Night Viral Taco Sensation Expands (and Is Imitated)

A taquero carves meat from the trompo at Tacos La Cuadra’s Northgate location.

When I arrive at Tacos La Cuadra in the TJ Maxx parking lot near Northgate at 8pm on Saturday night, the line is already 40 people deep. At the near end of the tent, a giant trompo rotates, laden with the telltale red-tinged pork for tacos al pastor. A team of three moves customers through the line efficiently, averaging less than a minute for each person in front of me.

One taquero carves the meat from the vertical spit, attempting the masterful flick of pineapple from the whole fruit at the top of the

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