A Sazón-Scented, Rum-Soaked Ode to Spanish Harlem at Belltown’s Lenox

Lenox serves an ambitious take on Nuyorican cuisine.

Lenox feels like a trip to the beach, minus the saltwater breeze—like Miami, but linen-shirt Miami, not sequined-minidress Miami. The palm-print wallpaper, rattan light fixtures, and rum-soaked cocktail list transport diners straight to La Placita, the party-hearty Puerto Rico neighborhood which gives its name to a fiery tropical fruit drink on the bar menu.

Yellow flower petals, pink pickled onions, and fresh white farmers cheese dance on top of the dishes. An island of plantains, mashed and seasoned into mofongo swims in an ocean of rich red shrimp criolla broth, a deliberate reminder of the influence of West African

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