On paper, I shouldn’t like the Spanish Coffee at Huber’s. The legendary drink served at Portland, Oregon’s oldest restaurant—established in 1879—combines multiple elements I tend to avoid in cocktails: heat, whipped cream and a show. And yet, when I downed one on a rainy Sunday evening, it hit the spot in a way no other cocktail has come close to in recent memory.
I have been burned by hot cocktails enough times that I usually steer clear of them. I often find Hot Toddies and their ilk to be overly diluted, cloying or difficult to consume in the narrow window of time they are at the optimal temperature to
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