At 8 p.m., Teressa Snelling flips on the neon “open” sign in the window of her Belmont Street food cart. The first customers of the evening trickle in, and she begins topping deviled eggs with smoked steelhead and house-pickled beets. Throughout the night, she feeds a cast of daily regulars: doulas heading home after a successful birth, nurses finishing shifts at Providence, and, often, other food service workers grabbing a bite after their restaurants shut down for the night. She loads takeout containers with quinoa salads crunchy with Cosmic Crisp apples, steams clams in white wine and dill butter, and stacks sandwiches with roast beef, smoked black pepper white
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