For years, as Thomas and Mariah Pisha-Duffly have opened groundbreaking, nationally significant restaurants around the city, they have struggled to define them. Gado Gado, their first, pulls much of its inspiration from the Indonesian culinary canon, an homage to Thomas Pisha-Duffly’s grandmother’s cooking and heritage. But to call Gado Gado a cut-and-dry Indonesian restaurant would be incorrect; the chef uses his entire professional background — Boston Italian kitchens, a Maine fine dining restaurant — to knock out one-of-a-kind dishes. At Oma’s Hideaway, the couple’s second restaurant, the freewheeling nature of the Pisha-Dufflys became more prominent; while the restaurant was, again, clearly influenced by Chinese and Malaysian cuisines, it’s also
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