Chapulines and Huitlacoche Arrive in North Portland at This New Modern Mexican Cantina

Javier Hurtado’s parents have one of those classic love stories: She owned a restaurant, he was a butcher. As he was growing up in Mexico, he was surrounded by good food — pots of mole verde simmering for weddings, ceviche eaten on the beach. As an adult, living in the United States, he followed in his parents’ footsteps: He opened the first Cha Cha Cha Taqueria in 2001, expanding across the city over the next two decades. The restaurants are known for their veggie-laden, fast-casual fare: Carnitas burritos wrapped with whole-wheat tortillas, bowls layered with black beans and rice, tempeh tacos with kale and onions.

But in June, Hurtado

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