Every year during Ramadan, Samira Mohamed, the owner of Montavilla food cart Mira’s East African Cuisine, gathers with her entire family — her nine siblings, her cousins, her aunt — for Iftar, the breaking of the daily fast after sundown. Before her family prays together at the mosque, they eat ceremonial dates and prepare a massive feast. Her aunt makes mashmash, a pancake-esque fried snack, and her cousin handles the shorba, a silky lentil soup. By the time everyone is able to eat, the Mohamed family is surrounded by food: crispy black eyed pea fritters called bajiya, sambusas, filled potato croquettes named nafaqo, fluffy doughnut-like puffs known as mandazi,
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